![]() shotguns are a real important part of history so all I'll do is box frame it along with a 1908 Ad that shows a gun like mine. Although it's in good shape, I'm still looking at the fact that I.J. I'm guessing it's a 20 gauge by the choke end of the Barrel. I'll research more in the future before I just start posting. I didn't notice in any posts that the letter suffix like mine stating it was made in the 1920's. Plus where I found my gun the new property owners gave me the age of the man who had that house was in his late 80's to early 90's when he passed & I read somewhere where a guy had a shotgun with a serial number that was about 1,500 before mine was manufactured so going by that, I came up with the mid 1930's because the guy there said his was from 1932-33 even though he had no letter at the end of his S/N. Thanks in advance-danmax1Ĭlick to expand.Well, I was on a few forums & that was what I came up with. The gun should fire fine, all the S/N's match so it's like it was when it left the factory. Now that I might have confused most of you, I still hope that there is one member who can help. They used this same method from 1909 to 1939 with the exception that some S/N's did not have one letter added to the S/N. I used Browning's method because even though A5's were made in different places & by different Companies, the S/N's were in order. I went to the Browning Website & the A5 S/N's which started in 1903 S/N:1 to 1953 which ended at 438,000 units manufactured. So I'm going by their model production S/N's & not the total units made by the manufacturer, since they made several different models. I mean my Belgium Browning A5 has a S/N that shows it's age to be 1951. I am hoping that there is someone who is better versed in figuring age. I use all kinds of ways to determine age & this way seemed to work the best. This I doubt but I have no other way to figure it out. Using this method, mine would have been the last one made before 1940 when they went to all letters. 1909-1935=26 years at 3,826 units per year.ĭivided S/N by the production years 1909-1939=30 years of at 3,316 units per year. If the S/N is 99476 D, I divided the S/N by the production years. Here is how I got the date I am starting with a S/N zero to my guns S/N. My Iver Johnson Champion seems to be from the mid 1930's to late 1930's. Since I can't see the gun to determine it condition I have to recommend that you do not attempt to shoot it.If you insist then take the gun to a good qualified gunsmith for a check out before attempting to shoot it.My first posting on the forum. I would say based on your description, you paid a fair price. A prime condition example (rare) can bring as much as maybe $100 at auction while a rusty metal, rotten or broken wood and missing parts piece of junk fit only for parts salvage or as a whisky still stirring stick might bring as little as $10. Value of these old guns depends on their condition, the amount of original finish remaining on the metal and wood as well as the mechanical condition. ![]() I kinda feel like you gun was made in 1908-1909. In the first table the year is given as 1908-1909 and in the second it is given as 1885. Serial number 24316 is listed in each table. There are also two set of serial number-year made tables, one for the New Model Champion and the second for the Old Model Champion, the Champion Junior and the Ideal Model. It says that if the word CHAMPION is above all other markings, the gun was made before 1925 and if the word is below all other markings, then the gun was made after 1925. The reference I have is a bit confusing on on serial number-date made information. ![]()
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